ByRoute 3.1 Co. Wicklow & Co. Wexford
These pages describe ByRoute 3 between Ballyboden & Killakee on the outskirts of DUBLIN and Mountgarret (Co. Kilkenny).
The Military Road (R115) was constructed by the British Army between 1803 and 1809 from Rathfarnham through the Dublin Hills into the Wicklow Mountains. The unfortunate Redcoats were paid the equivalent of 6 cents a day.
Glencree & Sally Gap (Co. Wicklow / North)
Glencree is a beautiful river valley in the Wicklow Moutains. In medieval times it was a Royal Park or preserve, almost entirely covered by virgin oak forest, and probably either wholly or partly enclosed by some description of artificial boundary to prevent wild beasts there from wandering away.
At the head of the glen, about 300m / 980ft above sea level, is a tiny settlement of the same name, which originally grew up around an early C19th British Army barracks used as a base for the construction of the Military Road. This later became a Borstal-style Boys’ Reformatory called Saint Conleth’s.
Now named Saint Kevin’s, the modernised complex houses the Glencree Reconciliation Centre, which aims to promote understanding amongst peoples of different persuasions, and has excellent conference facilities available for rent.
The small German Cemetery is for WWII servicemen who died in Ireland. Many of the graves are nameless, and quite a few of those buried here were very young. It is a beautiful and quietly moving spot.
Glencree is linked via a scenic spur of the old Military Road with Enniskerry on ByRoute 2.
Military Road (Photo by dickobrien)
Here the old Military Road undulates across upland bog along the eastern slope of Kippure, near the twin lakes of Upper & Lower Lough Bray.
HV Moreton wrote of this area: “Little brown streams trickle through the peat. The whole landscape is a study in various browns: brown peat like dark chocolate; black brown water; light brown grass; dark brown pyramids of cut peat stacked at intervals along the brown road.”
Sally Gap (Bearnas na diallaite – “gap in the saddle”), is the highest crossroads in Ireland, and on wintry days feels like the most remote place on Earth. One of only two passes across the Wicklow Mountains, it is sometimes called The Devil’s Crossroads. According to legend, Saint Patrick died here and was taken off to paradise on a white steed by Oisín.
The source of the River Liffey, a small black pool, can be reached by a bog track. Visitors wishing to avoid sinking to their ears in bogwater should only take this path in high summer; in the event of mishap, it should be borne in mind that this same bogwater is the basic ingredient of Guinness.
A Rocking Stone nearby was reputedly used by ancient druids to determine whether someone was innocent or guilty of a particular crime; the accused would be made lie under it and if his head was crushed before he confessed then he was obviously guilty.
Parts of Mel Gibson’s meretricious Braveheart (1995) were filmed locally.
Sally Gap is at the junction of the R759 to / from Kilbride on ByRoute 4 and the old Military Road (R115), at this point the highest public road in the country, which crosses high and lonely boggy slopes to reach Glenmacnass near Laragh.
Luggala (Co. Wicklow / North)
Luggala(pronounced Lugga-LAW) (aka Fancy) (595m) is not a particularly high mountain, but has seriously imposing cliffs looming over Lough Tay in the spectacularly scenic Clohoge River Valley, and its granite crag is popular for rock-climbing.
Luggala Estate, acquired by Peter La Touche in 1790, has long been known as the Guinness Estate, and currently covers 2500 hectares. Various houses and cottages are available for rent.
Luggala Lodge, the crenellated lakeside residence visible from the road overlooking Lough Tay, currently belongs to Garech Browne, arts patron par excellence; it was famous for the “raffish weekends” thrown by his mother, Oonagh Guinness, one of the “Golden Guinness girls” who feature colourfully in several aristocratic memoirs. Recently redecorated under the supervision of David Mlinaric, this “jewel in the crown of all the places to stay in Ireland” is leased for much of the year to celebritenants such as Michael Jackson (RIP), Mel Gibson and Orlando Bloom; rent, including staff, is in the region of 30,000 Euros a week.
The driveway meanders down the mountainside through woods above the lake for nearly two miles, and unauthorised visits are deeply discouraged.
Lough Dan (Loch Deán), visible from the high road overlooking the boomerang-shaped valley at the foot of Scarr Mountain (642m), is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful lakes in Ireland. Most of the surrounding land is private, but the northwest corner is part of the Wicklow National Park and lies very close to the Wicklow Way. It can be reached on foot from just beside the main gate of the Luggala Estate on the Sally Gap road; the scenic descent is well worth the effort of the return climb if you are reasonably fit. The lake is popular with scouts, kayakers and, unfortunately, occasional slobs on water scooters. It can also be accessed from the Roundwood side.
Ballinastoe Wood, located in a shallow valley on the southern slopes of Djouce, is a good place to spot Sika deer, badger, fox, red squirrel, grouse and many other species of birds. It is easily accessible from just opposite the main gate of the Luggala Estate, and has magnificent views of Vartry Reservoir.
Victoria’s Way, Ireland’s largest and most spectacular Sculpture Park, contains major black granite sculptures of Ganesh and other eastern deities, a meditation path and a philosophic maze. It is owned and run by Victor Langfeld (Berlin, 1940), an Orientalist who claims to have experienced the Four Noble Truths of Perfection.
