Killarney (Co. Kerry)
Killarney (Cill Airne – “The church of the sloes”) has a stunning lake valley setting, but the town is a tourist trap, largely devoted to fleecing visitors (especially Americans) of all their money. Although there are a few honourable exceptions, too many of Killarney’s hotels, B&Bs and restaurants charge inflated prices without any real quality, and too many gaudy souvenir shops sell overpriced “Oirish” junk, including the dreaded silly hats and leprechauns.
That said, Killarney does have some elegant old buildings, interesting lanes and handsome traditional shopfronts, a couple of excellent restaurants and several good pubs; and whatever about the town, visitors come to see the spectacularly beautiful scenery surrounding the Lakes of Killarney, eulogised by romantic poets and artists for over two centuries and now forming Killarney National Park.
Killarney developed in the second art of the C18th from a mud cabin settlement into a centre for commerce (mainly linen) and tourism under its enlightened landlord, Sir Thomas Browne, 4th Viscount Kenmare. His descendant Valentine Browne, 4th Earl of Kenmare, worked in the British Royal Household (eventually becoming Lord Chamberlain) and persuaded Queen Victoria and an entourage of over 100 to visit Killarney in 1861 amidst massive media hoopla. The town has never looked back.
Killarney House (c.1745) is currently due for restoration and refurbishment. The Golden Gates provide access to a pretty cherry tree walk in the attractively landscaped grounds of the old Kenmare Estate, now incorporated into Killarney National Park.
Deenagh Gate Lodge (1834), opposite the Cathedral, houses pleasant old-fashioned tearooms in season. The entrance is to a part of the old Kenmare Estate known as Knockreer, noted for its lovely gardens full of mature trees and wild flowers, with beautiful views of the lake valley. Kenmare House, the late C19th mansion built here by the 5th Earl of Kenmare, was destroyed by fire. Knockreer House, erected by the Grosvenor family in the 1950s, is now a field study and information centre for Killarney National Park. Pathways lead down to the River Deenagh, the lakeshore and Castle Ross, and there are several longer looped walking trails.
Killarney Courthouse, designed by George Richard Pain, was erected in 1835. Outside, sculptures depict the different fish to be found in the local lakes.
The Old Workhouse on Rock Road, designed by George Wilkinson of Oxford, was completed in 1845. Built to accommodate 800 paupers, it housed up to 1200 people at times during the Great Famine. The stone buildings remain virtually unaltered.
Killarney Railway Station is a charming Victorian stone edifice dating from 1853, when the town began to truly prosper as a tourism destination.
The Malton / Great Southern Hotel (1854), known as the Grand Old Lady of Irish hotels, is not at all cheap, but epitomises elegant C19th travelling style at its best. Rooms vary in size and facilities, resulting in mixed reviews, but the reception area is magnificent, the service impeccable and the restaurant very good indeed.
St. Mary’s Cathedral (RC) was designed by AW Pugin in 1842 as his homage to Salisbury Cathedral. It was half finished when the Great Famine brought work to a halt, and the structure was used for two years as a fever hospital. Inaugurated in 1855, the Cathedral was finally completed by George Ashlin in 1912 with the erection of the 90m / 285ft spire. It is a magnificent church, although post-Vatican II “liturgical re-ordering” in the early 1970s destroyed many attractive features. This vandalism was committed by Bishop Eamonn Casey, the hypocritical prelate whose 1992 exposure probably did most to destroy the previously monolithic authority of the Roman Catholic hierarchy.
The massive Californian Redwood tree outside the Cathedral was planted by Irish-Americans to mark a mass grave of victims of the Great Famine.
Pugin designs were also used for the Bishop’s House & Seminary (1861), the Old Monastery (1861) and the Presentation Convent & School (1886).
St. Mary church (CoI) in Rookery Close was founded in 1808 on the site of an ancient monastery, itself located at a prehistoric place of pagan worship. The church was severely damaged by fire in 1888, and restored / rebuilt in its current English Gothic form in 1889. The interior features beautiful stained glass windows, an impressive tiled floor and a lovely organ. Concerts and recitals are occasionally held here.
Killarney’s Methodist Church was constructed in 1911 in the style favoured by Sir Edwin Lutyens, with red brick walls and green tiled windowsills. A trio of leaded glass windows depict shamrocks, roses, and thistles to symbolise Ireland, England and Scotland.
The Franciscan Friary church (1864), founded by monks from Belgium, has stained glass by Harry Clarke. Across the road, the Speir Bhean Monument honours Kerry’s four Gaelic poets.
The Old Town Hall, a late C19th redbrick edifice, was constructed with materials left over from the construction of Lord Kenmare’s ‘ill fated’ mansion at Knockreer. This was the local theatre for many years, venue for countless musical and dramatic evenings. The central meeting point in front of the building is generally referred to as “Under the Clock”.
West End House, a former school of domestic science founded in 1906 by Lady Kenmare, has been an elegant restaurant since 1986.
Killarney’s famous jaunting cars (horse drawn carts), operated by local jarvies, famous for their tall stories, have long provided pleasant guided tours of the town’s environs.
The Lakes of Killarney, comprising the linked Lough Lein / Leane, Muckross Lake and Upper Lake, are surrounded by Killarney National Park.
The Killarney Regatta, Ireland’s oldest surviving regatta, is held annually on the first or second Sunday in July. The style of rowing is traditional, fixed seat rowing in wide, wooden 6 person boats. Since the 1980s, a number of local clubs have moved toward modern ’slide’ or Olympic style rowing.
The Lakes of Killarney can best be seen in all their splendour from the spectacular winding mountain road to Kenmare. The road is part of the Ring of Kerry.
Ladies’ View, so named for the enthusiasm displayed there by Queen Victoria’s Ladies-in-Waiting, is a very popular photo stop on, with spectacular views. It is often clogged with tourist coaches and cars with registration plates from all over Europe. The large shop catering to visitors’ needs looks like a bunker from a WWII movie.
Ladies’ View is very close to Moll’s Gap on ByRoute 1; this is the eastern end of the Internal Route on the Iveragh Peninsula.
Ross Castle, a square C15th Tower House built by the O’Donoghue clan on the barely offshore Ross Island in Lough Lein. Ross Castle was the last place in Munster to surrender to Cromwellian troops in 1652. After several days of siege, General Ludlow learned of a tradition that the castle would never be taken by land, and had ships brought from Kenmare and sailed across the lake, whereupon the previously staunch defenders immediately sued for terms. Now restored, the castle contains a collection of C16th and C17th oak furniture.
Ross Island also features one of Europe’s earliest Copper Mines, dating back to the Bronze Age some 4500 years ago, and still in use at the time of the Napoleonic Wars. The informative and enjoyable Mining & Nature Walking Trail takes 60-90 minutes to complete.
Ross Island is the departure point for hour-long tours of Lough Lein in large glassed-over bateaux-mouches like those on the Seine in Paris. Alternatively, local fishermen will take visitors out on the lake in little boats with outboard motors, which are also available for hire – the best way to land and explore the island of Inisfallen.
More soon!
